For a full treatment though you do need to clear the crud off, then rust treat it, paint it with whatever flavour you like be it hammerite or POR15 and then treat with Dinitrol . which I'd say to do the job properly is only enough time to clean, derust, degrease, prime and paint up proper the top and bottom wishbones on one side of the car. I assume you want cavity wax injecting into the panels, sills, etc, as well as Waxoyl underseal on the underside and in wheel arches? The gun squirted warm waxoil/white spirit out at a force never so far experienced, one particularly good jet hit the cat, who bolted, knocking over the 2/3 empty (1/3 full! The easy grip handle on sprayer makes the unit easy to carry during application while the pump action is used to gain desired pressure for application.

Peter's tip of diluting with white spirit is a good one - if it won't spray at ambient temperature, don't bother! I ought to point out that I had also decided that at some of the angles I was at pulling and holding the trigger was a pain so I had devised a cunning lock of an elastic band on the trigger so that I could let it do it things whilst it sprayed away. I think you can do just as good a job as the pro's but it is horrible filthy and a lengthy process to get in all the seams, holes, doors bonnet boot etc and box sections.

Rustbuster specialise in providing high-penetration cavity waxes that are excellent for protecting your car against rust.

Speaking to fellow TVR DIYers they recc up on axel stands once a year for a good look and re apply of the anti rust stuff. Hardwax provides superior corrosion protection for all types of vehicles and exterior metal structures.I'm quite looking forward to the "experience", seeing the job being done, taking plenty of photographs, etc. Compressor and parafin sprayer were used to spray in every hole, gap, opening and then to cover every surface.